Prague to Paris to London

Monday, November 17

We are off this morning for what should have been a 35-minute cab ride (it took almost an hour) to visit the studio of Yinka Shonibare. We have collected his work for many years but have never met the artist. We learn upon arrival that he has just returned from two weeks in Nigeria and is not well enough to meet. We will visit the studio anyway.

Born in London 63 years ago, Shonibare grew up in Nigeria. At age 18, he contracted a spinal infection that left him paralyzed on one side and confined to a wheelchair for the rest of his life. The work is entirely his vision, executed through a trusted group of assistants and fabricators.

Shonibare’s hallmark is the use of Ankara fabrics, also known as African or Dutch wax prints, a vibrant, patterned cotton textile iconic in African fashion. With a history rooted in cultural exchange and artistic innovation, Ankara remains a celebrated material used in everything from traditional clothing to contemporary high fashion.

We are greeted by his studio manager, Eimear O’Raw. At least seven women are working in the space. The studio is an explosion of color—fabrics, sculptures, prints, garments everywhere. I could not stop taking photos. A photograph of the quilt that is part of our collection was pinned to a wall. We spent about an hour looking, talking, and admiring. They could not have been more gracious. Next time—either here or when he travels to the U.S.—we will meet the artist himself.

The cab ride back into the city center gave us hundreds of views of this incredible place. I could wander the streets for hours taking pictures. The London black cabs, as they’re called here, are a pleasure—immaculate, spacious, and driven by the most knowledgeable drivers anywhere. We’re told they must attend an intense school to learn every street and passageway in London.

Our destination is Hedonism Wines, my favorite London liquor store. It’s after noon, and I remember that we dined at Cipriani—just a few steps away—with our London-based architect, Demetri Porphyrios, and his Natalie in 2023. Once again, we were not disappointed. Karen said her sliced avocados with olive oil, salt, and pepper, followed by a Dover sole filet with thinly sliced asparagus, was the best she has ever had. The place was full of interesting, very stylish guests.

I always shop for unusual vodkas at Hedonism. Today’s visit was made even better by a young woman—new to London from New Zealand—who helped me. I purchased 12 bottles, including two (I never drink the vodkas in my collection) made from peas. She assured me it was excellent. We will see. She calculated the vodka, then tariffs, then shipping. The total was far too much—but exactly what I expected.

Back to the hotel so Karen could warm up while I did a bit more shopping. We’ve noticed that despite the cold, damp, 40-degree weather, most shops keep their front doors open. And it is not uncommon to see guests, bundled in coats and scarves, having coffee or dinner outside. That would not be for us.

I did manage to fill another shopping bag with goodies, and I bought a new small suitcase to help get everything home.

Dinner tonight is at Noble Rot, a nearby fine-dining restaurant we discovered on our last visit. The place is tiny—only about ten tables. There may be an upstairs that doubles the space. The menu is very limited. The food was very good, but not great. And only wine—no martinis. By the way, look up “noble rot.” Traveling definitely continues to add to one’s knowledge.

We finished the evening with a drink back at the hotel. Another great day!

Robert