Prague to Paris to London

Sunday, November 16th

A very relaxed day in our wonderful, spacious room at the Ham Yard Hotel—one of our favorite places in one of our favorite cities, London—just the two of us. While browsing a cultural app, I found a description that captured the spirit of London perfectly.

We had planned to visit another Niki and Jean T. (spelled differently in the Western world) exhibition at the Hauser & Wirth Gallery, until we learned it was at their Somerset location—a three-hour drive each way. We passed on that plan and decided instead to go shopping and perhaps have a little lunch.

The first place we stumble upon is Whole Foods—yes, the same Whole Foods. We have fun browsing for cookies, some of which aren’t available in the States. Before long we find ourselves near Regent Street, the famous London shopping avenue. The sidewalks are full again, Christmas shopping already in full swing.

We duck in and out of several shops until we reach my favorite—Arket. I love the clean, simple look of their clothes and accessories. I find a few things I like, though not my favorite dress slacks from past visits.

Just around the corner is Carnaby Street—one of our favorite walking streets—packed with shops and people. We continue to keep an eye out for a lunch spot. My beloved funky shoe store is gone, but MUJI, the mini Japanese department store, is still there. I may stop back tomorrow for a new suitcase.

Close to our hotel we discover Bill’s, a large, casual restaurant bustling with people at 3:00 in the afternoon. The food and drinks turn out to be excellent. I order a passion-fruit and grapefruit martini that is delicious. We will definitely return.

Karen returns to the hotel, and I head out on a quest for an ATM. They are not as plentiful as one might expect, and I’m looking for one affiliated with a bank I recognize. After a ten-minute walk, I find what I’m looking for, only to discover it’s “out of service.” I can’t even locate the second one. I give up and head back. I pass seven restaurants within a single block—every cuisine imaginable. Some are tiny, with only a handful of tables. I discover an Italian coffee shop offering pistachio croissants; I’ll have to try one some morning.

Dinner at the hotel is excellent. They miss my martini on the first try, but our great waiter walks me directly to the bartender, and the second is perfect. We share a Dover sole (we are very close to the cliffs of Dover), swimming in butter, followed by a very different but wonderful rice pudding. Life is good.

Robert